Have you ever contemplated buying a Category C or D vehicle but worried about its reliability, reputation or re-sale value? Does the price seem too good to be true? Are you able to get insured? How can you verify the repair quality? These are questions asked by every car buyer tempted to purchase their dream car at a price significantly lower than its non-recorded counterpart, but should you?
What are the categories?
- Category A: This vehicle has suffered unspeakable damage such as a burn-out and possesses no economically salvageable parts. This car is only good for crushing.
- Category B: If you imagine categories like levels, then Cat B is the second worst! These recorded vehicles are no longer road-worthy and should not be repaired. However, some of its parts may be salvageable and re-used but the main body shell should be crushed.
- Category C: This vehicle can be repaired, however the costs of repair exceeds the vehicles value. This can re-appear on the road, however some insurance companies may refuse to insure it.
- Category D: Similarly to Cat C, this vehicle can be repaired, except the costs of repair is below the value of the vehicle.
DID YOU KNOW? Vehicles that are stolen recovered (and have no damage) can still be recorded as a Cat D.
Examples of Cat C and D cars for sale
CATEGORY C: Volkswagen Polo (2013, 34k miles) R line sport – £3,795
UNRECORDED: Volkswagen Polo (2013, 40k miles) R line sport – £8,000
CATEGORY D: Audi R8 (2008, 37k miles) 4.2 V8 – £37,990
UNRECORDED: Audi R8 (2008, 37k miles) 4.2 V8 – £42,971
CAT D: Lamborghini Gallardo 5.2 V10 (2008, 28k miles) – £63,000
UNRECORDED: Lamborghini Gallardo 5.2 V10 (2008, 29k miles) – £92,995
Should you buy one?
Heck yes! You could get into your dream car for a price 25-40% below market value. And in some cases, a car can have a recorded status for minor damage such as scraping a wheel. Of course you would need to carry out more rigorous checks such as:
- Pay for an inspection: this can range between £150 – £300 but it’s worth it in the long run and for peace of mind
- Pay for a history check to make sure the seller isn’t keeping anything from you
- Find out what was damaged and who carried out the repair
- Try to obtain evidence/proof that the repair for carried out correctly
- It would be better to buy from a registered trader rather than a private sale as the consumer would have more rights
Recorded cars seem to have this negative stigma and shouldn’t be given a second glance. But in most cases, recorded cars drive the same as their non-recorded counterpart (as long as there has been no mechanical damage) and is much better value for money!